Whether enjoyed raw on the half-shell or in
a creamy bowl or stew, no food so perfectly captures the sweet, salty
taste of the sea as an oyster. In spite of the long list of names you
may be presented with at an oyster bar, there are just four species of
oysters - Atlantic or Eastern oysters, European flat oysters, Pacific or
Japanese oysters, and tiny Olympias. What makes one oyster different
from another depends on where it is grown.
When choosing, forget what you may have
heard about not eating oysters in any month that doesn't have an "r" in
it. The truth is that oysters are safe to eat all year round; they just
aren't as good in the summer months, when the waters warm up. This is
when the oysters spawn, and their normally firm flesh turns milky and
soft. Winter is a better time to eat oysters because that's when the
water are coldest and the oyster's flavor is best. When you're at the
store, note how the oysters are displayed. They should be kept flat on a
bed of ice or in a refrigerator. If they're all jumbled together in a
bag, their juices will run out. Also, make sure that the oyster shells
are tightly closed. If the shell is open, even a crack, the oyster meat
will dry out. If you will be serving raw oysters on the half-shell, they
will always taste best if shucked just before serving. When the oysters
are to be cooked, it's generally okay to buy shucked, vacuum-packed
oysters. All shucked oysters should be plump and uniform in size, smell
sweetly of the sea, and have clear liquid often called liquor.
To eat oysters safely, stick with cold-water
oysters. Those from the North Atlantic and Pacific Coasts are the safest
bet. Gulf Coast oysters carry the toxic organism Vibrio vulnificus,
a naturally occurring bacterium that has resulted in outbreaks of
illness. Also, never eat an oyster that isn't icy cold. Harmful bacteria
lie relatively dormant when it's cold, but once the temperature warms
up, they can cause trouble. Keep in mind, too, that alcohol can lower
your resistance to harmful bacteria. It's best not to consume too much
alcohol if you plan on eating raw oysters. A final caution: If you are
pregnant or your immune system is compromised, avoid oysters altogether.
Once you get the live oysters home, arrange
them flat on a baking sheet or a plate, cover them with a damp cloth,
and store them in the refrigerator. Depending on when they were
harvested, live oysters will keep for about 1 week in the refrigerator,
but they will taste best when consumed as soon as possible. Shucked
oysters can be covered in their liquor and refrigerated up to 2 days or
frozen up to 3 months. Avoid soaking oysters in water, however, which
dilutes their flavor.
To shuck, use an oyster knife, which is
short and sturdy, with a pointed tip for boring into the shell hinge to
pop it open. You can also use the pointed tip of a can or bottle opener
to pop the shell, then use a dull knife to cut the oyster meat from the
shell. Avoid using a sharp kitchen knife, which could cause serious
injury. Before you begin, cover your hand with a thick, folded dish
towel, a pot holder, or a specially designed oyster glove to protect
yourself from a slip of the knife and the rough edges of the shell.
To make oysters easier to shuck, place the
raw oysters in the freezer for about 15 to 20 minutes, which will weaken
the oysters and cause them to release their grips on their shells
slightly. Of course, oysters are not quite as fresh when using this
method. If the oysters are to be cooked, simplify shucking by placing
them, deepest shell down, directly on a gas burner. Turn on the heat to
medium for 3 to 5 seconds. The heated oysters should easily pry open. Or
arrange 6 to 8 oysters around the rim of a plate, hinged side facing
outward. Microwave on high power just until the shells begin to open, 30
seconds.
Oysters take literally seconds to cook. Heat
a non-stick skillet until very hot. Add the oysters and stir until they
plump, 30 to 45 seconds, depending on the number of oysters in the pan.
Immediately remove from the pan with a slotted spoon. Use the liquid in
the pan to create a sauce. Be careful to avoid overcooking oysters,
which causes them to become tough.
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