Fresh bread loses both shape and texture when it is moistened by a sauce, while bread that is a day or two old will absorb moisture and still retain its shape. Stale bread is also preferable for french toast, since its firm shape makes it easier to crisp the outside when it is fried.

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Bravery is not required, but you do need to concentrate and be well prepared. Measure the ingredients accurately and, when melting the mixture, take care that it does not become too hot. Line the metal baking trays with nonstick baking paper and leave plenty of space around each spoonful of the mixture on the sheet to allow for spreading. The biscuits should be about 7.5 cm apart.

Cook no more than two trays at a time, or some biscuits may become too firm before you are ready to roll them into shape. If this should happen, simply return the tray to the oven for a few seconds to let them soften, then roll up.

Be sure to have several wooden spoons and a few wire racks to hand so that you can cope very quickly with rolling and cooling.

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It is difficult to say which is the more fattening of the two. A typical recipe for brandy butter contains less fat than thick cream, but more kilojoules, because it has quite a high sugar content.

You could always substitute a reduced-fat margarine spread for butter when you are preparing brandy butter, but that would be defeating the purpose of this rich indulgence. If you enjoy such luxuries in small amounts, and only on special occasions, it is probably best to let your tastebuds decide which is preferable.

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